2018 Commission Prices and Policies
Commissions are available ONLY to my mailing list members. If you are not a member of my mailing list, please join before contacting me about a commission. You can sign up via the Home page.
I make absolutely NO guarantee that my work is “live show quality” as everyone’s definition as to what that is can differ greatly. Yes, my work has won ribbons in all levels of competition, but I make no guarantee that your model will win anything in live or photo show competitions.
Please note: Even though I have been labelled as such (and my hobby identity is Red Horse ARTworks), I am NOT an artist. I never have been, am not one now, and I never will be an "artist". I am a model horse hobby painter. That is what I have always been and that is what I will always be. So, if you are looking to have your model painted by an "artist", then you will have to look elsewhere. I have no formal training in painting or airbrushing or art in general. I am simply a model horse enthusiast who ended up painting her own models because she couldn't afford to buy the models done by true hobby artists.
My work is far from perfect - there will most likely be some rough areas, some bits of this or that (probably cat hair, since I have 5 of the little devils), and areas that missed my eye when prepping or painting. If you want perfection, you won't find it here.
I PAINT MODEL HORSES BECAUSE I ENJOY IT - NOT TO WIN RIBBONS OR PAY THE BILLS.
Please note: Even though I have been labelled as such (and my hobby identity is Red Horse ARTworks), I am NOT an artist. I never have been, am not one now, and I never will be an "artist". I am a model horse hobby painter. That is what I have always been and that is what I will always be. So, if you are looking to have your model painted by an "artist", then you will have to look elsewhere. I have no formal training in painting or airbrushing or art in general. I am simply a model horse enthusiast who ended up painting her own models because she couldn't afford to buy the models done by true hobby artists.
My work is far from perfect - there will most likely be some rough areas, some bits of this or that (probably cat hair, since I have 5 of the little devils), and areas that missed my eye when prepping or painting. If you want perfection, you won't find it here.
I PAINT MODEL HORSES BECAUSE I ENJOY IT - NOT TO WIN RIBBONS OR PAY THE BILLS.
CLASSIC/TRADITIONAL SCALE |
Tamiya Acrylics |
Solid Color |
$150 (dapples extra) |
Dappled Gray |
$200 and up |
Appaloosa – Simple/Minimal Pattern |
$225 and up |
Paint/Pinto – Simple/Minimal Pattern |
$225 and up |
Resins must be hollow cast.
Models must come to me WELL-PREPPED and in WHITE primer. What is well-prepped? Smoothly sanded seams, air-hole in both plastic and hollow-cast resin models, divots/deep seams/etc. filled with putty and/or epoxy and sanded smooth. The finish of the primer must be smooth, not pebbly or like sandpaper. I reserve the right to refuse to paint any models that are not prepped to my standards.
Yes, I know there aren’t many preppers around taking orders (or many preppers in general), so I will gladly help/advise you on how YOU can prep your own models. You don’t need a ton of expensive supplies, especially if you are prepping a well-cast resin or the smaller sizes (but, of course, adding things such as epoxy, mini files, sanding sticks, carbide scrapers and the like will make the job easier). Prepping plastics can be a bit more of a challenge if they have poorly aligned seams, overzealous seam grinders, and plastic being harder than resin, but it can be done with a few more supplies, some patience, and a bit of determination.
JUST WHAT ARE TAMIYA ACRYLICS VS. TRADITIONAL ACRYLICS?
Tamiya acrylics are not specifically airbrush paints but they are often used in an airbrush. They are aimed at the military modeler hobby and don’t come in normal artist colors (example: Hull Red, Desert Yellow, NATO Brown). They are very opaque and color builds quickly (thus models can be completed quicker), but the trade-off is that there will be less depth of color and a certain amount of graininess (compared to regular/airbrush acrylics). I do try to offset the flatness of Tamiya Acrylics by spraying Krylon Matte Spray between layers to build some depth and luminosity (and durability). Details are also not as fine and precise with this paint (as in dapples, which is a good thing in that instance), but they still look very nice and other hobby painters use Tamiya acrylics with great success.
Models must come to me WELL-PREPPED and in WHITE primer. What is well-prepped? Smoothly sanded seams, air-hole in both plastic and hollow-cast resin models, divots/deep seams/etc. filled with putty and/or epoxy and sanded smooth. The finish of the primer must be smooth, not pebbly or like sandpaper. I reserve the right to refuse to paint any models that are not prepped to my standards.
Yes, I know there aren’t many preppers around taking orders (or many preppers in general), so I will gladly help/advise you on how YOU can prep your own models. You don’t need a ton of expensive supplies, especially if you are prepping a well-cast resin or the smaller sizes (but, of course, adding things such as epoxy, mini files, sanding sticks, carbide scrapers and the like will make the job easier). Prepping plastics can be a bit more of a challenge if they have poorly aligned seams, overzealous seam grinders, and plastic being harder than resin, but it can be done with a few more supplies, some patience, and a bit of determination.
JUST WHAT ARE TAMIYA ACRYLICS VS. TRADITIONAL ACRYLICS?
Tamiya acrylics are not specifically airbrush paints but they are often used in an airbrush. They are aimed at the military modeler hobby and don’t come in normal artist colors (example: Hull Red, Desert Yellow, NATO Brown). They are very opaque and color builds quickly (thus models can be completed quicker), but the trade-off is that there will be less depth of color and a certain amount of graininess (compared to regular/airbrush acrylics). I do try to offset the flatness of Tamiya Acrylics by spraying Krylon Matte Spray between layers to build some depth and luminosity (and durability). Details are also not as fine and precise with this paint (as in dapples, which is a good thing in that instance), but they still look very nice and other hobby painters use Tamiya acrylics with great success.
STABLEMATE SCALE |
Airbrush Acrylics |
Solid Color |
$100 (dapples extra) |
Dappled Gray |
$150 and up |
Appaloosa – Simple/Minimal Pattern |
$150 and up |
Paint/Pinto – Simple/Minimal Pattern |
$150 and up |
STABLEMATE PREPPING (plastic or resin) $15.00
MICRO MINI SCALE |
Airbrush Acrylics |
Solid Color |
$90 (dapples extra) |
Dappled Gray |
$110 and up |
Appaloosa – Simple/Minimal Pattern |
$110 and up |
Paint/Pinto – Simple/Minimal Pattern |
$110 and up |
MICRO MINI PREPPING (pewter or resin) $10.00
Solid colors include normal face and leg markings. Primitive markings will be a bit extra (on Classic/Traditional and Stablemate scale models, included in Micro Mini scale).
VERY IMPORTANT – PLEASE READ
Folks, I am a slow painter at best. If you are a member of my Facebook studio group, you probably know I suffer from severely dry eyes. That condition very often limits the amount of time I can devote to painting. I cannot say how long it will take to finish your model. If you don’t hear from me for awhile and want to know what is happening with your model, feel free to contact me at red.horse.artworks@gmail.com.
HOW IT WORKS
I will have only 2 of each size in the studio at one time, but I will maintain a wait list for each size (so there will be three wait lists – Classic/Traditional, Stablemate, and Micro Mini).
When models are nearly completed, I will contact the next person on the wait list to see if they are still interested and are ready to send me a model. If they are still interested but don’t have anything ready to send immediately, they will go to the end of that list.
The wait lists will consist of the names of people interested in having me paint “something” for them in that scale. That way, you aren’t locked into sending me a particular model, but can decide when I contact you what model you would like to send.
Models must be in my hands no later than 2 weeks after I contact you about an opening. If your model hasn't arrived within the 2 weeks, the next person on that wait list will be contacted and your name will go to the end of the list.
PAYMENT and SHIPPING
I do not require payment up front or a deposit. Payment in full MUST be received within 5 business days upon notification that your finished model is ready to ship. I usually give you a heads up that your model is nearly finished so you can make sure to have the funds available when the model is done. If payment is not received within 5 business days, I will consider the model abandoned and it will either be sold or kept at my discretion. Customer also pays return shipping and their chosen amount of insurance.
I do take PayPal, but I prefer a money order (or a personal check, if you have already ordered from me before) to save me the PayPal fees.
PLEASE NOTE: I will return your completed model in the same box and packing material as it was sent in, so be sure to send it in an appropriate box with plenty of packing materials! I do NOT have extra boxes and packing materials to return your model in so you must be sure that the piece is packed well in a sturdy and generously sized box because it will be making its return trip in the same box.
CONTACT ME at red.horse.artworks@gmail.com for a commission request or with any questions.
VERY IMPORTANT – PLEASE READ
Folks, I am a slow painter at best. If you are a member of my Facebook studio group, you probably know I suffer from severely dry eyes. That condition very often limits the amount of time I can devote to painting. I cannot say how long it will take to finish your model. If you don’t hear from me for awhile and want to know what is happening with your model, feel free to contact me at red.horse.artworks@gmail.com.
HOW IT WORKS
I will have only 2 of each size in the studio at one time, but I will maintain a wait list for each size (so there will be three wait lists – Classic/Traditional, Stablemate, and Micro Mini).
When models are nearly completed, I will contact the next person on the wait list to see if they are still interested and are ready to send me a model. If they are still interested but don’t have anything ready to send immediately, they will go to the end of that list.
The wait lists will consist of the names of people interested in having me paint “something” for them in that scale. That way, you aren’t locked into sending me a particular model, but can decide when I contact you what model you would like to send.
Models must be in my hands no later than 2 weeks after I contact you about an opening. If your model hasn't arrived within the 2 weeks, the next person on that wait list will be contacted and your name will go to the end of the list.
PAYMENT and SHIPPING
I do not require payment up front or a deposit. Payment in full MUST be received within 5 business days upon notification that your finished model is ready to ship. I usually give you a heads up that your model is nearly finished so you can make sure to have the funds available when the model is done. If payment is not received within 5 business days, I will consider the model abandoned and it will either be sold or kept at my discretion. Customer also pays return shipping and their chosen amount of insurance.
I do take PayPal, but I prefer a money order (or a personal check, if you have already ordered from me before) to save me the PayPal fees.
PLEASE NOTE: I will return your completed model in the same box and packing material as it was sent in, so be sure to send it in an appropriate box with plenty of packing materials! I do NOT have extra boxes and packing materials to return your model in so you must be sure that the piece is packed well in a sturdy and generously sized box because it will be making its return trip in the same box.
CONTACT ME at red.horse.artworks@gmail.com for a commission request or with any questions.